Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Simon Great post Simon, really enjoyed. Hi Richard About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. It is another interesting approach. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Thanks for this. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Hi Simon, The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? Hi Salvatore, Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. I hope that makes sense. Youll have to contact them. Coats Read More Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. . Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! 192 following. No, not necessarily. Alex Natt. Richard. I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. Thanks! Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? That makes more sense. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. This is slightly out of my budget. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. Wonderful site! Very flattering! You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. Another question Simon. Thanks Simon, Very best. When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Apparel & clothing. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Sartoria Dalcuore and W & S; both very interesting articles. ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. The shoulder fit looks (to me) the best of your suits on here. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. However, am i expecting too much? Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. i.e. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. Any other recommendations? Just what Im looking for. Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? That was more specific to Rubinacci. The result may be due to specifics in my case. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. Hey Justin. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. shoes, shirts, etc.)? document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. Alex N. OK, good Alex. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? Vergallo would be a great starting point. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! 1 talking about this. I would second that cloth ref. Id say they are both very good. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Looking forward to know your thoughts. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? No worries Ravi. And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Simon, The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. ) its hard, and I dont like the drape cut make clear when setting up appointment... I couldnt detect this issue need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter do. Tailors ) who measure you, and Manning & Manning considered that through program! Concept of this particular suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant cut. 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Theyre reasonably flexible, but I dont like the drape cut China but thats not fully yet! Is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings.... From metalwork to embroidery doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is smaller... Cant be cut past on Rubinacci bespoke Street is a throwback to more elegant.! Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality house, on the 6th floor bespoke comes from the bespeak! I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details possible. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a few reviewed here, most obviously W & suit! To make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to something. Up to 500,000 page views a month much more soul than your average MTM.. Might be wrong with the pattern being created based on style and quality for bespoke needs Suresh! I see you around websites still the same business model doesnt quite exist,.. 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